Tussar Silk Saree

Tussar silk is a wild silk produced by silkworms reared in open forest environments in eastern and central India, mainly Jharkhand, Bihar and Chhattisgarh. It is known for its natural gold sheen, rich texture and breathable weave, and is handwoven by tribal and artisan communities using centuries-old methods.

Tussar is called wild silk because its silkworms grow in natural forest habitats, feeding on forest trees, rather than being farm-raised indoors on mulberry leaves. This open-air rearing produces a textured, slightly irregular fibre with a warm golden undertone that domesticated mulberry silk does not have.

Mulberry silk is smooth, uniform and glossy, produced by domesticated silkworms. Tussar is textured, matte and naturally golden, produced by wild silkworms. Tussar is also more breathable and lighter, making it better for warm climates, while mulberry suits high-shine formal wear.

Kosa is the Chhattisgarhi name for tussar silk. All Kosa is tussar, and Kosa from the Champa belt of Chhattisgarh is considered among the finest tussar in India. Swades Creations offers a dedicated Kosa silk collection alongside this broader tussar range.

Tussar refers to the silk that is sourced from Antheraea moths that live in the wild and feed on forest leaves, and the silk has a natural golden tone. Raw silk is derived from the Bombyx mori moth and has not been degummed; the moths are fed cultivated mulberry leaves. Raw silk retains its natural sericin gum which makes it slightly stiffer, is naturally in white or cream shades and is highly receptive to dye, so the sarees come in bright and bold shades with sheen. Tussar silk has a natural golden matte finish and is challenging to dye, hence tussar sarees come in more earthy and natural shades.

Yes. Tussar has a porous, breathable structure that makes it one of the most comfortable silks for hot and humid weather. It is significantly lighter than traditional brocade silks, which is why tussar sarees are popular for summer functions and daytime events.

Tussar silk is not automatically Ahimsa (cruelty-free) silk, but it can be. In the conventional method, cocoons are boiled with the silkworm inside to keep the silk thread continuous and long, giving a smoother, more continuous weave; this is the more common process. In Ahimsa tussar, cultivators wait for the moth to naturally bore its way out of the cocoon, and only then collect and spin the discarded casing, which gives the fabric a highly textured feel.

Yes, tussar silk is GI tagged, but the tag is region-specific rather than a blanket certification for all tussar silk. Different regions have earned Geographical Indication (GI) tags for their unique tussar weaving and production methods; for example, Bhagalpur Tussar from Bihar and Chhattisgarh tussar silk sarees are both GI tagged.

A tussar silk saree can take anywhere between 3 and 20 days to weave. The weaving time depends on the intricacy of the design: plain weaves are quicker, while detailed borders and dense motifs take considerably longer.

Yes, handloom tussar sarees come with a blouse piece, which can be tailored to your preferred fit and style.

To check if tussar silk is genuine, use the silk burn test: pull a few loose threads, hold them with tweezers over a fireproof surface, and briefly touch them to an open flame.

• Real silk: burns slowly, self-extinguishes when removed from the flame, smells like burnt hair, leaves a dark, crumbly powdery ash bead
• Synthetic fabric: burns rapidly, keeps burning after removal, smells like plastic, leaves a hard melted lump

The most reliable everyday assurance, however, is Silkmark certification, which every Swades Creations tussar saree carries.

Dry clean only. Store the saree wrapped in breathable muslin away from moisture and direct sunlight, iron on low heat from the reverse side, and refold it every few months to prevent permanent creases. Each time the saree is worn, leave it open under a fan to remove moisture like sweat before folding it back. Well-kept tussar lasts for decades and softens gracefully with age.